An A to Z of Hermès’ extensive fabric arsenal
Hermès has a long and illustrious history crafting high-quality leather goods, with its mid 19th Century origins rooted in making equestrian harnesses and saddles. It is known for its obsessive attention to detail and a vast range of leathers. This A to Z takes you through some of the best-known, rarest and discontinued leathers and fabrics Hermès has produced.
Cowhide
Barenia
Barenia is a well-established leather in Hermès’ equestrian offerings, where its durability made it a natural choice for saddles. Barenia is made from high-grade calf leather tanned in a labor-intensive process that takes up to six weeks. Barenia is a very delicate leather, which is prone to scratching. It is one of the softer leathers and bags made with this leather will lose shape after a while. It has a buttery smooth, matte finish. Barenia has a reputation for being hard to maintain but, on the contrary, the leather improves over time and develops a slight patina, making it an ideal everyday bag. Barenia bags are rare to see but can be identified from the contrasting white stitching they usually feature and the natural color stamp embossed into the leather. Barenia leather comes in colors other than Natural - such as Black, Vert Olive and Indigo.
Barenia Faubourg
Barenia Faubourg leather was released in 2017 and is named after the iconic Paris boutique Rue de Faubourg Saint-Honoré. This leather has a small grain, making it resistant to scratches and blemishes. Barenia Faubourg should never get wet.
Box Calf
Box Calf leather has the smoothest finish of all Hermès leathers with a fine, visible grain. It holds a special place in the hearts of Hermès purists as the leather the fashion house originally used in its bags. Almost all vintage Kellys are crafted out of this smooth and sleek high-grade calf leather. Box Calf is recognizable from its glossy sheen, which develops further as the bag is used.
Small scratches tend to buff out of box leather fairly easily, although watermarks will stain the leather. It is named after 19th Century British shoemaker Joseph Box.
Box Nepal
This is bull leather that was released in 2001. The material is not processed like Box calfskin. This matte leather is slightly smooth to the touch. It's mainly used for bags, such as the Herbag.
Butler
Butler is natural and untreated leather. It is often mistaken for Barenia, but it is much rarer. Butler is a closer relation to Tadelakt. It is silky smooth, with a very subtle grain and is very prone to scratches, though small scratches can easily be buffed out. Over the years, your Butler leather will reveal a pretty sheen. Butler leather was released in 2013.
Chamonix
A variation of Box Calf leather but with a matte finish, Chamonix is smooth and seductive. It doesn’t scratch as easily as Box Calf and any small scratches it does get are easily buffed out. Rainy days are a real no-no with this bag, as the water will permanently stain the leather. Chamonix is made of male calf hide, which comes from a resort area in the French Alps of the same name.
Country Leather
This processed female calf leather was released in 2007. It has a large grain and a good firmness, which lends itself well to Garden Party. It is durable, everyday leather.
Courchevel
Courchevel was discontinued for bags in 1999, but used in accessories until 2003. It is an embossed leather with a very even grain throughout. Courchevel is slightly shiny and darker on the top part of the grain. This durable leather is lightweight, scratch-resistant and easy to clean.
Derma Leather
Derma leather was released in 2004. It is made from male calf hide and processed until it is incredibly smooth and thin. It is known for its softness to the touch and smooth, matte texture. Although this material is delicate, it can be crafted into almost any shape once it is processed.
Epsom
The pattern of Epsom is heat-pressed into the leather and, for that reason, it has a slightly laminated look. Epsom is a rigid leather that maintains the shape of the bag well and is also scratch-resistant. It is lightweight leather that is easy to clean and can stand up to some rain. Epsom is one of the most popular materials used by Hermès. Its low maintenance appeal makes it a great entry point for first-time Hermès buyers. It replaced Courchevel leather in 2003.
Evercalf
Almost the twin of Box Calf, this smooth leather is just as sleek but even softer. Eagle-eyed leather lovers will notice it is more matte and more resistant to scratches, too. It has a velvety finish with no visible grain.
Evercolor
Evercolor is a firm leather with a matte appearance. It is commonly used in small leather goods. It was released in 2013.
Evergrain
Evergrain is a stiff leather with a fine grain. It is remarkably similar to Evercalf, but notably softer, despite being embossed leather. Evergrain can scratch easily, but smaller marks can be buffed out. The color version is called Evercolor.
Fjord
Fjord leather is made from an adult bull hide and is more durable than Togo or Clemence leather. It is a matte, anti-scratch, hard-wearing and waterproof leather, making it a great option for unpredictable climates. Fjord is one of the heavier leathers Hermès uses and has a very visible grain, which is wider and flatter than Togo or Clemence. From a distance, it looks like this leather has vertical veins, but the amount of veining can vary based on the skin. Sometimes there is no veining at all.
Jonathan
Jonathan is a relatively new leather from Hermès that is similar in softness to Swift, but a little more rigid. This premium leather is not easy to find.
Monsieur
Monsieur was created in 2018. Its similarity to Box calfskin, considered the king of leathers, earned it the same name bestowed upon the king’s brother during the Ancien Régime (1515-1547). Monsieur leather has a satiny finish and a tiny grain. It maintains its shape and gets a slight satiny shine in the areas that are most often handled.
Negonda
This male calf leather is usually seen on Garden Party bags. It has large grains and is fairly firm, making it a good option for bags that are likely to be subjected to heavy use. It is matte leather, completely resistant to water and has a dry feeling to the touch. Negonda was released in 2007.
Sombrero
This leather was intended for men’s bags. It is firm with an ultra-matte appearance that makes colors look perfectly even. It keeps its shape over time. Sombrero has been in use since 2011.
Sombrero II
This version of Sombrero version is more satin and softer than Sombrero and keeps its shape over time. It first appeared in the 2017 collection.
Suede/ Veau Doblis
Doblis isn’t often used but is extremely popular because of its luxuriousness. This soft, velvety leather needs a little TLC to protect it from scratches, water and dirt. Due to its soft nature, the material may slouch over time and is not intended for heavy use.
Swift
This leather was previously known as Gulliver. It was discontinued in 1999 and reintroduced in 2005 with a new name: Swift. You will mostly find Swift on small leather goods and clutches, but there are a few handbags made of this supple leather, too. You can spot Swift leather from its semi-matte appearance, micro-grain and super soft feel. Swift gradually develops a sheen the more you use it. Though it tends to show wear and tear faster than more durable leathers, you can easily buff out small scratches with your fingers. Swift leather absorbs dye very well, bringing brighter colors to life.
Tadelakt
Tadelakt, also called Veau Tadelakt, is a smooth, very soft calfskin leather with no visible grains. It is commonly used in leather jewelry and small leather goods. Tadelakt is prone to scratching and blistering if it gets wet, but if you are prepared to put in the effort to maintain it, it is well worth the pay-off.
Taurillon Clemence
Taurillon Clemence leather is also known as Veau Taurillon Clemence and one of Hermès’ most popular leathers and has been used since the mid-1980s. This leather is soft and slouchy with a natural grain. It has a wider and flatter grain, giving a matte effect. Clemence leather is made from baby bull hide, which is very durable and is scratch-resistant. It is prone to cracking at the edges, but this can be repaired. Clémence is durable, but won’t stand up well to water.
Taurillon Cristobal
Taurillon Cristobal leather is mostly found in small leather goods for men and men’s handbags. It is soft to the touch and has visible grains.
Taurillon Maurice
This fairly new leather was first seen in 2017. It provides a good alternative to Clemence with a small, round and well-defined grain and a sturdier hold. It softens over time, developing a satin sheen.
Taurillon Novillo
Taurillon Novillo is lightweight leather that holds a more rigid shape than Clemence and Togo. It provides a great canvas for bright colors which show up particularly brightly on this leather. Taurillon Novillo was introduced in 2015.
Togo
Togo, made from baby calf leather, has been one of Hermès’ best-loved leathers since it was first used in 1997. It is lightweight, scratch-resistant and, despite its suppleness, holds its shape. It has a pebbled finish that softens and develops a slight sheen over time. However, Togo won't become overly slouchy, making it a popular choice for larger bags.
Troika
Troika leather is only used in very few Hermès bags worldwide. It is made from unborn male calf leather. Troika leather is covered in strokable calf hair. It has a smooth texture and is full of luster.
Vache Hunter
Vache Hunter leather is a cowhide leather primarily used as a trim in Hermès bags, such as Etriviere and Herbag. It is a very stiff leather that is prone to scratches and commonly has a rough, unfinished underside.
Vache Liegee
This natural grained hide is stretched in eight directions to create its light sheen and two-toned grain effect. This stiff, durable leather was introduced in 2004.
Vache Natural
Vache Natural is a classic Hermès leather you can find in vintage pieces over 50 years old.
It is a smooth, untreated and very soft and delicate cowhide that develops a patina over time. The material changes in color and reveals its texture as it matures.
Vache Trekking
Vache Trekking leather is made from processed male calf hide and is noted for its firmness and fine pressed grain. This leather was released in 2009 and is mainly used in the Garden Party bags and only available in a limited number of colors due to the nature of its grain. It is extremely rare to find on other Hermès bags.
Vachette Grainee des Ardennes
This discontinued pressed, processed leather is made from male calves from the Ardennes region of northeastern France. It is very thick, sturdy and holds its shape well but is prone to fading. It is water and scratch-resistant leather but doesn’t feel soft because of its slightly raised grains. Vache Liegee replaced Ardennes leather.
Shop Vachette Grainee des Ardennes
Veau Grain d’H
This stamped, processed male calf leather is recognizable from the fine H monogram embossed onto the leather, giving a uniform pattern and a soft, textured feel. It has a slight sheen and doesn’t scratch easily. Grain d’H has been used in a wide range of bags and wallets since it was released in 2012.
Veau Grain Lisse
Veau Grain Lisse sometimes referred to as “VGL”, is a discontinued glass-processed leather. This process makes the leather slightly shiny with rounded grains. VGL is thin, lightweight, scratch-resistant and holds its shape well.
Veau Grizzly
Grizzly is a raw calf hide, known as suede outside of Hermès. Keep it well away from water and buff out any scratches.
Veau Madame
Veau Madame is one of Hermès' more recent offerings that is mainly available in small leather goods, such as the Bastia change purse and Calvi card holder. The appearance of this 2019 leather is similar to Epsom, with the difference being that the embossed grain is finer, less pronounced and softer to the touch.
Veau Miroir
Veau Miroir is a bull calf leather. It is a glossy material like lame, and it has a distinctive texture with a pearl-like appearance. Miroir is mainly used for small items such as card cases.
Veau Rodeo
Veau Rodeo, or simply called Rodeo, has unique veining. It is 100 percent resistant to scratches and is often used in well-used accessories such as wallets.
Veau Sikkim
This leather has little to no grain, giving it a buttery and soft finish. It tends to not hold its shape and gets slouchy very easily. Sikkim leather is used for Bolide and Kelly Relax and the Double Sens tote.
Velvet Leather
This leather is also known as Nubuck and crafted from a male calf rawhide. It has a coat trimmed to a velvet finish. It is used for accessories and, occasionally, a select few handbags.
Vibrato
This very delicate mountain goat leather is sadly discontinued, which makes finding a vibrato bag extra special. Though it may look like a fabric, this look is achieved by stacking goat leather and suede together to achieve colorful layers. Vibrato bags are hard to find because they are highly sought-after. This leather showcases the capabilities of the highly trained Hermès craftsmanship. Vibrato is difficult to maintain but durable and scratch-resistant. When you buy it new, it often comes with an “eraser” to refurbish the leather.
Vibrato Snip
Vibrato Snip takes the Vibrato leather one step further. It uses stacked leather, but it is cut into sections of 3 to 4cm and then put together again. This technique requires an even higher skill than the Vibrato leather. Unfortunately, it is not in production anymore.
Villandry
Villandry was named after a chateau in the Loire Valley in France. It is smooth and becomes shinier over time in the areas that are handled most often. Villandry was released in 2016.
Volupto
This supple leather is similar to the leather used in the ready-to-wear collections. It has a very small grain giving it a smooth appearance. Volupto has a waxy finish and, as it wears with age, darkens and develops a patina
Volynka
This special leather was recreated long after it was thought to have been lost forever. To achieve this, Hermès bought skins of beautifully preserved Russian leather retrieved from a shipwreck and spent six years analyzing it. Once it was discovered how to recreate this once-revered leather, Hermès did just that.
Waffle
As the name suggests, this leather has a waffle-like pattern on the surface, which is made by sandwiching wire in Evercalf leather. This distinctive leather was developed for the Kelly bag.
Goatskin
Chamkila
Chamkila means "shiny" in Hindi and, like Hermès goatskin, it comes from India. It has a small, irregularly patterned grain that is smooth and shiny. This shine develops further over time. Chamkila was first used in 2018.
Chèvre
Chèvre is a lightweight and extremely resilient goat hide. It is characterized by its shiny finish, resistance to scratches and rigidity. Chèvre can take a lot of use which is why the lining in Hermès bags is made from Marocain (Morrocan) Chèvre. Chèvre is used as the base for all of Hermès’ metallic bags, which are some of the most coveted on the market.
Chèvre Chagrin/Sully
A 100-year-old vegetable tanning process is used on Chèvre Chagrin or Sully leather to bring out its rich texture and ensure it will produce an attractive patina over time.
Chèvre de Coromandel/Souple
Chèvre de Coromandel is a tough goat hide that shares a lot of characteristics with Chèvre Mysore. It is a lightweight, soft leather that is surprisingly hard-wearing and resistant to scratches. Unlike Mysore, it has a visible spine down the center.
Chèvre de Coromandel was renamed “Souple” in spring 2008. It now has a less visible spine and is much more pliable. This leather is said to combine luxury and practicality.
Shop Chèvre de Coromandel here
Chèvre Mysore
This supple, lightly grained leather is sourced from goats near Mysore in India. Chèvre Mysore has a more defined grain than Chèvre de Coromandel and has a sheen that takes on color beautifully, showcasing their intense vibrancy. If you plan to buy a Chèvre Mysore bag, make it a colorful one. This leather is completely scratch-resistant and very durable.
Milo
Milo is a lambskin leather used for small Hermès leather goods like Rodeo charms.
Buffalo
Buffalo Dalmatian
This discontinued leather gets its distinctive look from the dyeing process. The dye gathers in the creases of the grain giving the leather a spotted, dalmatian look. Dalmatian is scratch and water-resistant.
Buffalo Gala
Buffalo Gala is a soft leather that is only used in smaller leather goods.
Buffalo Pondicherry
Buffalo Pondicherry is a moderately soft, fine-grained leather. It was released in 2009 and is mainly used for accessories.
Buffalo Skipper
This soft leather is made from water buffalo hide and has a medium-sized grain. It absorbs dyes best at the center of the grain which gives the leather its spotted appearance. This water and scratch-resistant leather is great for heavy use.
Buffalo Sindhu
Buffalo Sindhu is also crafted from water buffalo hide. It was released in 2007 and is only used in the Garden Party line.
Exotic Skin
Alligator Matte and Shiny (Lisse)
This exotic skin comes from the Mississippi Alligator. It has large, irregular square scales with rough edges and features an umbilical scar, usually deliberately placed front and center.
This exotic skin also comes in matte and shiny. The symbol stamped onto bags to symbolize the leather is Alligator is a square “□”.
Caiman Crocodile
This skin is discontinued due to a lack of reliable and good-quality sources, but it can still be found on vintage Hermès bags. Caiman is a thin skin with long, flat and rectangular scales. There are very few Caiman bags on the market today, but they are a great addition to a vintage collection.
Crocodile Niloticus Matte and Shiny (Lisse)
Crocodile Niloticus is made from crocodiles from the River Nile in Zimbabwe. It has larger, more durable scales than Porosus and holds color better. This exotic skin also comes in matte and shiny. The symbol stamped onto bags to symbolize the leather is Crocodile Niloticus is a diaeresis “..”.
Crocodile Porosus Matte and Shiny (Lisse)
Crocodile Porosus skin is probably the most highly prized exotic skin because of its small, pleasingly symmetrical square scales. This exotic skin comes in two varieties: Matte and Lisse (shiny). The symbol stamped onto bags to symbolize the leather is Porosus Crocodile is a caret “^”.
Emu
Emu was sometimes used as a substitute when ostrich hide wasn’t available. Its smaller “pores” are the main difference. This skin is no longer used.
Ostrich
This leather will darken with skin contact and lighten with light exposure. Its distinctive polka dots are from where its feathers have been plucked. The leather is delicate but it can be wiped down with a dry cloth when it gets wet.
Snake
Snake is a rarely used Hermès exotic skin because of the difficulty keeping it in pristine condition. Recent collections have featured python Oran sandals and you can find vintage karung and water snake bags.
Varanus Salvator Lizard
The small size of this shiny scaled hide means it is mostly used in Birkin 25, smaller bags and small leather goods. The symbol stamped onto bags to symbolize the leather is Varanus Salvator Lizard is a “=”.
Shop Varanus Salvator Lizard here
Varanus Niloticus Lizard
Also known as Nile Lizard, this leather is made from River Nile monitor lizards. It has small scales, a shiny appearance and a grainy feel. It is extremely delicate and needs protection from water and tarnishing. It also tends to dry out. The symbol stamped onto bags to symbolize the leather is Varanus Niloticus Lizard is a “-”.
Shop Varanus Niloticus Lizard here
Canvas
Amazonia
Amazonia is a 100 percent water-resistant rubber-coated canvas that is prone to scratches. It is no longer in production.
Canvas
Canvas is a heavy-weight cloth that is usually combined with other leathers. It is commonly used in the Herbag line. This durable cloth is one of the easiest Hermès fabrics to clean.
Toile
This kind of linen is usually used with leather on Hermès bags. It is most commonly used in Garden Party bags.
Toile Casque
Toile Casque is a cotton canvas that was released in 2008. It features bright colored stripes of yellow with black, red with blue and beige with black.
Toile Chevron
Toile Chevron is a cotton canvas, woven in the shape of chevrons. It is made with two threads, one is dyed and the other left natural.
Toile GM
Toile GM has a larger and rougher weave than regular Hermès Toile canvas. It is one of Hermès’ more durable materials. The GM stands for Grand Modèle.
Toile H Canvas
Toile H Canvas is made by combining two different colored threads to form an “H”. It is usually combined with other leathers. It is one of Hermès’ most durable materials and is fairly easy for an expert to clean.
Toile Jean
Toile Jean is a casual and durable denim canvas.
Toile Jibeshieru
Toile Jibeshieru is a canvas material made using thin thread. This material is developed for daily-use bags, such as Garden Party and Evelyn. It is only made in moss green (khaki).
Toile Officier
Toile Officier is a cotton canvas that uses a thin thread of a single color. It is most commonly seen in the Garden Party and Herbag lines.
Toile Potamos
Toile Potamos is a cotton canvas material that features flowing lines. It is usually combined with leather in handbags such as Birkin. Toile Potamos was only released in 2006.
Toile Riga
Toile Riga is a canvas with distinctive stripes. It is mainly used alongside leather.
Toile So H
Toile So H is a combination of canvas and wool woven together to create an “H” design. This light and durable material is only used in Garden Party handbags.
Nylon Canvas
Nylon canvas is a durable material mainly used in the Herbag line. It is resistant to dirt and moisture, making it a good pick for outdoor use.
Other Fabrics
Crinoline
Crinoline, made from horsehair and hemp, is used in conjunction with leather. This sturdy fabric is a great material for bags that have to hold their shape, such as Jige clutches.
Feutre
Feutre is a soft and warm wool material that is commonly used in smaller accessories.
Klang Cheval
Klang Cheval is woven horsetail hair used for purses as well as some Birkin and Boledo lines.
Lainage
Lainage is plaid-printed wool. Lainage was exclusively used in the Hermès Fall Winter 2006 RTW collection and is no longer used.
Linen
Hermès linen is usually woven in a herringbone or chevron pattern with two colors of thread. This material is used in dustbags and the lining of certain bags.
Rocabar
Warm tones of orange, red and brown colors make up this distinctive wool fabric that is sometimes used in RTW items and bags such as the Garden Party line.
Shearling
Shearling is the skin of a sheep or lamb with the wool left on. This warm, snuggly material is used in coats and winter accessories. Collectors may also remember the handful of teddybear-esque Kelly Retourne Shearling bags that were released in 2005.
Sylvania
This yet-to-be-released fabric is the result of a collaboration between MycoWorks and Hermès. This fungi-based material is eco-friendly and vegan, designed to emulate leather in look, feel and durability. The first Sylvania-based design, the Victoria bag, will be released by Hermès by the end of the year.
Wicker
Wicker is the method of weaving a flexible branch into a basket or bag. Hermès uses Osier, a kind of willow. The material was used for Kelly Picnic, but it is now discontinued.
Special Materials
Hermès has sometimes used extremely rare and, in some instances, now banned, materials for bags. Of these bags only a few examples exist, sometimes only one. Known materials used for these bags are: Troika (unborn male calf leather), Peau Porc (pigskin), sterling silver, beluga whale skin, horsehair (Crinoline and Klang Cheval), mushroom leather (Sylvania) elephant hide or feathers.
