The Ultimate in Exclusivity

We’ve all heard about the mythical Hermès special order bag, the made-to-order Kelly or Constance that only the brand’s most dedicated customers are invited to create. But how do you identify this rarity and what are the most popular examples? Keep reading for your all-access pass to the service known in insider circles as the exclusive ‘Hermès horseshoe club’.

What is an Hermès Special Order?

While Hermès customers have been making personal requests for generations — the Birkin, Kelly Lakis and Collier de Chien bracelets were all born from customer requests — the Special Order service only acquired its official title and horseshoe stamp of authenticity just over a decade ago. Before this, Special Order pieces didn’t have any identifying marks. Placed to the left of the standard Hermès insignia, the horseshoe stamp (also known as ‘HSS’) is like a secret nod that confers a certain status as a cherished and loyal client. Being invited to ‘build’ one’s own classic Hermès bag is a rare privilege bestowed upon only the lucky few. In an era of instant-access luxury, it’s also the ultimate appreciation of slow craftsmanship and creativity.

“In an era of instant-access luxury, an Hermès Special Order is the ultimate appreciation of slow craftsmanship and creativity.”

How Can I Get a Special Order Hermès bag?

Part of the appeal of a Special Order (or SO in Hermès-speak) is its relative scarcity. Thanks to the time taken to make one, the service is limited to coveted invite-only appointments. Special Order bags are only offered twice a year to the most loyal Hermès customers with a strong purchase history. If you have developed a good relationship with your sales assistant (SA) you may be offered the chance to create a Special Order handbag. Each store has a very limited number of Special Orders they can offer, so it’s worth politely enquiring about the process to let your SA know you would be interested if the opportunity arose.

What are my options with an Hermès Special Order?

Embrace this opportunity as a chance to order a bag you could never otherwise own. For example, Kelly Sellier in Togo leather is a remarkably rare combination, making it a covetable HSS order.

While the choice of variables on offer is vast, it isn’t infinite, involving an almost mathematical puzzle of configurations of bag styles, leathers, colors, hardware and stitching, with the parameters of what you can and can’t customize frequently changing. Not all Hermès bags can be customized. In 2021, the options for bicolor Special Orders include Birkin, Birkin Sellier, Kelly Sellier, Kelly Sellier Mini, Kelly Retourne, Kelly Ado, Kelly Danse, Kelly Mini and Kelly Cut. For bicolor bags there are three options: Line, Verso and Multico. Line features a contrasting thread, Verso features a second color on the interior and Multico features a second color for the handles and side panels of the bag. There is a larger choice of bag models if you opt for a single color Special Order, including Constance 24 and Mini.

Once you have decided on the style and size, it’s onto the joy-sparking leather and color choices. The leathers and colors you can choose from depends on the bag model. Those opting for a Birkin can pick from Mysore Chevre, Clemence, Epsom, Swift and Togo. VIPs may be offered exotic skins, such as Crocodile and Ostrich.

“You don’t have to be an Hermès VIP to get your hands on one of these prestigious HSS bags, because many find their way to the secondary market.”

The craft of color

Hermès is renowned for its extensive color library, with its own ‘color committee’ that chooses the seasonal palette for all its collections. Pink shades, such as the whimsical milkshake pink of Rose Sakura, are quickly snapped up on the secondary market. But classic colors are also in demand, including Craie (a chalky off-white) and blues, from the cloud-like Bleu Brume and Ciel to the intense Blue Saphir, a popular choice for Birkins. If hesitant about the brightest colors, here’s a pro tip: consider a smaller bag, like a Special Order Mini Kelly. A playful shade in a scaled-down cross-body model is infinitely more wearable, in the same way as a wallet or piece of jewelry. Or another option is to elevate a neutral-colored bag with a contrasting pop of color inside. Special Order bags are limited to two colors at the most, so a two-tone colorway is a smart compromise. Tricolor HSS options are no longer available but you can occasionally find them on the secondary market.

The final extras

Those are the key elements to customize, but let’s not forget the hardware finishing. The usual options are gold (GHW), brushed gold (BGHW), palladium (a silver color, PHW), brushed palladium (BPHW), and – for the Constance only – rose gold (RGHW). Brushed metal is considered more scratch-resistant so perhaps the best choice for a bag you plan to use a lot. Finally, the stitching, pockets and strap length are also open to creative tweaks, as well as stamped initials for the ultimate personal branding or a small metal motif. Design options for the motif include a horse’s head, shooting star, heart with a keyhole and a four-leaf clover.

Special Order Exotic Skins

Being given the opportunity to place an exotic skin Special Order is the ultimate dream for many Hermès lovers. To say it is a rare honor is an understatement. Not every store can place an exotic skin special order, and those that can have very limited numbers, making it an honor bestowed on only the most highly regarded customers. Exotic skins also require the most patience of all Special Order bags, taking up to three years from the time you order to the time you get to show off your bag.

HSS bags on the secondary market

You don’t have to be an Hermès VIP to get your hands on one of these prestigious HSS bags, because many find their way to the secondary market. These customized bags can take from six months to three years to complete and, inevitably, when they are presented to the customers who ordered them, they may have bought a similar bag in the meantime or changed their mind about the order. These customers are under no obligation to buy, however, most customers do purchase their bags to nurture that all-important relationship with their Hermès sales assistant. These customers then discreetly resell their HSS on the secondary market, making them available to anyone who can snap them up fast enough.

The Value of an HSS Bag

Special Order bags are known to retain and often exceed their original monetary value and can be sold for as much as $100,000 on the resale market. But perhaps most importantly, acquiring a one-off creation for your Hermès bag collection adds a personal storytelling value that can’t be overstated.

With so many ways to individualize these incredible forever pieces, it’s no wonder that demand remains sky-high. Just remember, whatever combination you desire in a Hermès handbag, the perfect one is out there waiting for you, complete with its mark of excellence – the all-important horseshoe stamp.

Shop Hermès Special Order bags here

Special Order Explained: Hermès Horseshoe Stamp