Hermès items are known worldwide as the most beautiful and elegant bags. However, this prestigious status also means there are many counterfeits in circulation. While these copies may mimic the design's appearance, they lack Hermès' philosophy of beauty and first-class craftsmanship.
To avoid being deceived by such counterfeits, one must develop both knowledge about bags, including how to distinguish between fake and authentic items, and a keen eye for observation. In this article, a Hermès specialist appraiser with over 30 years of experience will guide you on checkpoints for verifying quality and characteristics.
Note: Based on our many years of experience as a Hermès specialist store, we authenticate products according to our own appraisal standards.
As technology advances, Hermès counterfeits are becoming increasingly sophisticated. When purchasing Hermès products—often considered valuable investments—having the knowledge to reliably identify counterfeits is essential.
Here, we will explain the characteristics and trends of recent counterfeit items.
Recently, there has been an increase in Hermès counterfeits with the following characteristics:
Recent advancements in 3D scanning technology have enabled counterfeiters to create highly accurate molds of authentic products. In addition, they are increasingly improving their methods by disassembling genuine items to study their manufacturing processes and using high-quality materials. As a result, exceptionally sophisticated counterfeits are now circulating in the market, which can challenge even experienced experts, requiring more time for authentication.
Given this growing sophistication, choosing a trustworthy retailer has become more crucial than ever when purchasing authentic items.
In recent years, with the rise of social media and second-hand trading platforms, disputes related to counterfeits have become increasingly common. Below are some typical cases and their preventive measures:
To avoid falling into similar disputes, it is recommended that you take the following preventive measures:
When purchasing Hermès products, the key points for identifying counterfeits may vary depending on the timing of the purchase. The following sections break down the important things to confirm during three stages: before purchase, during online purchase, and after purchase.
There are three key points to be cautious about before purchasing Hermès items:
When purchasing from online stores that are not official Hermès boutiques, pay attention to the following:
Please verify the following points as soon as possible after purchase:
As seen, verifying whether a product is counterfeit requires thorough attention to many details. To ensure peace of mind when purchasing Hermès products, it is recommended to choose a trustworthy authorized retailer or specialty store.
At the Hermès specialist store "XIAOMA," every product is thoroughly inspected by professional appraisers with 10 to 30 years of experience, following our own rigorous standards. We have established a comprehensive process to ensure that customers can shop with complete confidence.
▶︎Click here to learn more about XIAOMA
Authenticating Hermès items requires years of experience and profound expertise. Each Hermès item embodies the craftsmanship and tradition of its artisans.
Here, from the perspective of professional appraisers, we will introduce ten key points for identifying Hermès products. These assessment criteria serve as indicators for comprehensive inspection, from the product's exterior to internal specifications and included accessories.
It's crucial to thoroughly check the details before purchasing a bag. If there are differences in size, leather type, or color, it is likely to be a counterfeit item.
For example, the standard sizes for the Birkin bag include 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, and 50 cm. Other sizes are rare unless they are special editions.
Hermès is very precise about its bag sizes, so measuring the dimensions along the base of the bag can help determine authenticity.
*Please note that the sizes mentioned above may slightly vary due to manufacturing methods (such as external or internal stitching) and usage (e.g., using an organizer inside the bag).
Similarly, certain specific styles may not use particular leather materials or colors, so please be cautious. If there is a size discrepancy or an unavailable color, it indicates that the bag is a counterfeit.
The following articles provides an overview of Hermès materials and color options, feel free to refer to them:
▶︎Click here for a list of Hermès materials
▶︎Click here for a list of Hermès colors
First and foremost, it is essential to examine the overall feel and quality of the bag. Those familiar with Hermès bags can immediately detect counterfeit bags due to a lack of balance and an unnatural sense of quality.
Hermès conducts strict checks on both stitching and materials, so if you notice any oddities or unnatural features in the bag, it is recommended that you refrain from purchasing it.
While pre-owned bags may have some minor scratches, wear, or fading due to time, if you're purchasing a brand-new item, the bag should remain in perfect condition.
Differences in color between the bottom and handles of the bag, as well as texture differences between the front and back, and the material feel of the side pleats—if these leather textures are inconsistent, it can be confirmed as evidence of a counterfeit.
Experienced authenticators, in addition to inspecting the materials and colors, will run their fingers along the opening of the bag to check the leather's thickness and smoothness, which helps determine its authenticity.
The precision of the cutting, uniformity of leather thickness, and the craftsmanship of the edge finishing are important indicators in distinguishing between genuine and counterfeit products.
Authentic Birkin and Kelly bags have four metal feet on the bottom, precisely positioned to ensure the bag stands perfectly upright. When you place the bag on a flat surface, it should not tilt or fall over.
The handles of authentic bags should maintain their upright position and will not bend or fold over. Additionally, to enhance usability, the front handle of a Birkin is intentionally designed to be slightly shorter than the back handle. Therefore, if both handles are equal length, this indicates the bag is likely to be a counterfeit.
Pay close attention to the Hermès embossing and brand stamps. The Hermès stamp is located on the leather portion below the stitching in the center front of the bag. The spacing between letters is uniform, and the characters are clear with consistent thickness.
Additionally, the embossing should be gently pressed into the leather to avoid damaging the leather, and importantly, the font color used for the stamp must match the color of the metal hardware.
However, it is important to note that bags from Barenia and Veau Chamonix leathers only feature embossing without coloring. Below is an example of the embossing on Barenia leather. ▼
In cases where exotic leather is used, there is a special stamp indicating the material. For example, on a Porosus Crocodile Birkin, you can see the "Λ" stamp. ▼
Related article: Hermès Exotic Leather Guide
In addition, every Hermès product is stamped with information indicating the manufacturing year and the artisan who crafted it. This information is presented through a combination of shapes, symbols, letters, and numbers. Its complex form not only prevents counterfeiting but also serves as a key indicator for authenticity.
Taking the Birkin bag as an example, although the placement of the stamp may vary depending on the model, it is typically embossed in a concealed location on the bag. For most models, the stamp is found on the inner side of the shoulder strap, the inside of the outer pocket, or the upper part of the side panel.
Below are examples of the typical stamp locations for representative models for your reference.
For the stamp placement of other representative styles, please refer to the following article.
▶︎(2024 latest edition) List of Hermès stamps｜Production date & meaning
In addition to confirming the presence of the stamp, it is important to carefully check whether the bag's color, material, and production year match the stamp information. If the stamped details do not align with these characteristics, the bag is likely a counterfeit.
The hardware used in counterfeit items often reveals poor quality, they are often overly shiny hardware or have noticeable polishing marks.
Additionally, the structure of the hardware components can help distinguish between genuine and counterfeit items. For example, authentic hardware is finely crafted and uniform, while counterfeit items may have missing details or exhibit unnatural width in certain areas.
Even for pre-owned bags, the metal hardware usually shows no excessive wear or unnatural shine. Hermès craftsmanship ensures that the metal accessories maintain their high quality over time, with little to no loss of luster or damage.
Some special hardware, such as black accessories, has been discontinued due to their susceptibility to scratches, but this rarity has made them highly sought after by collectors.
Furthermore, hardware accessories such as the turn lock, cadena (padlock), clochette keys, and feet (studs) should all have the same quality and color. Therefore, if there's any inconsistency in even one of these elements, they could be signs of a counterfeit.
Hardware components that are loose or wobbly are another typical sign of a counterfeit.
For brand new items, the protective film on the hardware should be colorless and transparent.
If the protective film is white or blue, it is likely evidence of a counterfeit. While some counterfeits may replicate the transparent protective film, this can usually be verified with other distinguishing features.
Additionally, the clochette (key holder) of a Birkin bag must be made from a single piece of leather, with consistent leather texture and grain. If the texture of the leather on the front and back of the key holder feels different, or if it is made from two pieces of leather, this is a clear indication of a counterfeit.
The engraving on the metal hardware is also an important indicator for authenticating the genuine product.
The authentic product's markings, as shown in the image above, are clear and precise, while counterfeit products often feature blurry markings. This is due to uneven engraving edges.
The stitching on Hermès products can also help determine whether an item is authentic or not. Given that the advanced sewing techniques of Hermès are a major part of its appeal, the Birkin uses a distinctive two-needle hand-stitching technique called the saddle stitch.
After more than a year of training, skilled artisans carefully stitch each piece, creating uniform seams without any loose threads. Unlike mass-produced imitations made by machines, authentic Hermès items are known for their beautiful stitching.
The quality of the zipper is a major point in determining whether a Hermès Birkin item is authentic or not. The zippers used in Hermès are designed to stay parallel to the zipper track and never tilt diagonally. The pull tab of the zipper is made of the same material and color as the bag, so there will be no differences in material or color.
The zipper is engraved with the uppercase letter 'H' or the 'Hermès' brand name, while older models feature a square mark. These engravings reflect Hermès' attention to detail, ensuring that each product embodies the brand's unique craftsmanship and quality.
If a zipper has a manufacturer's logo like YKK, it is clearly a counterfeit, and no further authentication is needed. Similarly, the serial number on the padlock (cadena) must match the key number, which is also an important point for identification. Products without a serial number or with mismatched numbers should not even be considered. For example, a white Birkin comes with a white padlock, and Birkins made of exotic leather come with padlocks covered in the same leather. These are all details to help distinguish genuine products from replicas.
The lining of a bag is extremely important to Hermès, and they never compromise on quality just because it's an interior element. Many Hermès bags use chèvre or goatskin (leather with a natural grain texture) for their linings.
Bags with no lining, or those using fabric or vinyl materials for the lining, are counterfeit. The stitching on the lining is also a crucial point of inspection. Irregular stitching or uneven stitch spacing are signs of poor-quality counterfeits. One way to authenticate Hermès bags based on the lining is to verify the exterior and interior color combinations on the official Hermès website. If the color combination doesn't exist in their official lineup, it's evidence that the bag is a counterfeit.
Hermès does not issue authentication certificates. Ironically, this means that authentication certificates actually serve as proof of counterfeit items.
At XIAOMA, however, our deep expertise in Hermès allows us to meticulously inspect each bag against our own strict standards, and issue our own authentication certificates for products that meet these standards.
▶︎XIAOMA's Authentication Experts
Authentic Hermès items never use plastic materials in their packaging, as this could potentially damage the leather. Kelly and Birkin bags (prior 2024) come with rain covers, and depending on the year of manufacture, they are delivered in dust bags that use either one or two straps. The dust bags are of high quality, made from either tan velour, orange cotton flannel, or beige canvas. The fabric is thick, with sturdy drawstrings and stitching. In rare cases, special order items may come in silk dust bags.
In recent years, Hermès boxes have incorporated brand marks that become visible under UV (ultraviolet) light, helping to prevent counterfeiting.
Since Hermès uses the highest quality leathers, its distinctive scent is difficult to replicate. For example, a brand-new Birkin bag has a natural earthy aroma. In contrast, poor-quality counterfeits often emit a harsh, chemical or rubber-like smell due to the use of inferior leather or plastic.
Leather that has been tanned to a high standard carries a distinct fragrance, and experienced authenticators can easily identify the smell of different types of leather. If the scent does not match the leather type, the bag is likely to be counterfeit.
At XIAOMA, our experienced authentication experts with 10 to 30 years of experience carefully verify each product based on our own strict quality standards.
This is done both to help Hermès enthusiasts acquire their "dream items" with confidence, and to help pass on to the next generation Hermès' bag philosophy, first-class craftsmanship, and passion. If you are uncertain whether your item is authentic, please feel free to consult with XIAOMA.
This not only allows Hermès enthusiasts to confidently own their dream items but also passes on the passion for craftsmanship and heritage of Hermès.
If you have any questions or concerns about items, please feel free to consult with XIAOMA anytime.
▶︎Click here to learn more about XIAOMA
Note: Based on our many years of experience as a Hermès specialist store, we authenticate products according to our own appraisal standards.
