Hermès items are known worldwide as the most beautiful and elegant bags. However, this prestigious status also means there are many counterfeits in circulation. While these copies may mimic the design's appearance, they lack Hermès' philosophy of beauty and first-class craftsmanship.

To avoid being deceived by such counterfeits, one must develop both knowledge about bags, including how to distinguish between fake and authentic items, and a keen eye for observation. In this article, a Hermès authentication specialist with over 30 years of experience will guide you through the key checkpoints for distinguishing between genuine and counterfeit items.

[Essential Guide] Latest Trends in Hermès Counterfeits

As technology advances, Hermès counterfeits are becoming increasingly sophisticated. When purchasing Hermès products—often considered valuable investments—having the knowledge to reliably identify counterfeits is essential.

Here, we will explain the characteristics and trends of recent counterfeit items.

The Latest Counterfeit Trends to Watch Out For

Recently, there has been an increase in Hermès counterfeits with the following characteristics:

Precision Stamping Replication: Counterfeiters use digital scanning to copy genuine stamps and accurately recreate them.
Using Genuine Accessories to Manufacture Counterfeits: For example, using authentic boxes and rain covers, but the actual bag is a counterfeit.
Hybrid Counterfeits with Mixed Features: Combining elements from multiple authentic styles to create a counterfeit that is harder to detect at first glance.

Recent advancements in 3D scanning technology have enabled counterfeiters to create highly accurate molds of authentic products. In addition, they are increasingly improving their methods by disassembling genuine items to study their manufacturing processes and using high-quality materials. As a result, exceptionally sophisticated counterfeits are now circulating in the market, which can challenge even experienced experts, requiring more time for authentication.

Given this growing sophistication, choosing a trustworthy retailer has become more crucial than ever when purchasing authentic items.

Common Inquiries and Solutions

In recent years, with the rise of social media and second-hand trading platforms, disputes related to counterfeits have become increasingly common. Below are some typical cases and their preventive measures:

Finding a personal seller on Instagram, who claims the product is from an authorized store and provides a receipt photo, but the received item turns out to be a well-crafted counterfeit.
Purchasing from a Japanese seller living abroad, who claims the product is from a local Hermès boutique, but the actual item received is a counterfeit.
Buying from an account suspected to be a celebrity, with the seller claiming the product is part of their personal collection, but the item received is still a counterfeit.

To avoid falling into similar disputes, it is recommended that you take the following preventive measures:

Confirm the seller's identity before the transaction: Ensure the authenticity of the seller and check their past transaction records.
Request detailed photos of the product: Including details such as embossing, serial numbers, etc., for a more comprehensive inspection.
Verify the record of purchase from an authorized store: Request invoices or other purchase proof to confirm the source.
Keep transaction records and screenshots of conversations: These can serve as evidence in case of a dispute.

In Different Situations: Key Points for Identifying Hermès Counterfeits

When purchasing Hermès products, the key points for identifying counterfeits may vary depending on the timing of the purchase. The following sections break down the important things to confirm during three stages: before purchase, during online purchase, and after purchase.

Before Purchase: Verify Seller Reputation and Price

There are three key points to be cautious about before purchasing Hermès items:

Verify Seller Reputation

Physical Store Presence: Be cautious if there is no physical store or the address is unclear.
Company Transparency: Be cautious if the company profile is unclear or lacks a contact name.
Secondhand Dealer License: Be wary if the license number is not provided, as it may indicate illegal activity.
Past Transaction History & Reviews: Be cautious if the reviews are all perfect scores or the review count is very low.

Price Verification

Prices Significantly Below Market Value: Be cautious if the price is more than 50% below the normal market price, even for used items.
Claims of being "cheaper than official stores" are generally impossible.
Know the Price Range of Authentic Items:
Birkin: starts at ¥1,700,000
Kelly: starts at ¥1,700,000
Constance: starts at ¥1,600,000 (Prices vary based on size and material)

Check Accessories

Storage Box: Should be orange color for items made after 2000.
Rain Cover: Recently, Hermès stopped providing rain covers, they are only included with bags made before 2024.
Shopping Bag: Check the paper quality, handle material, and how it's tied.
Store Receipt: Verify store name, date, product name, and price.
Care Card: Check that it includes French and English instructions, and that the product information matches.

When Purchasing from Online Stores: Verify Product Details and Website Credibility

When purchasing from online stores that are not official Hermès boutiques, pay attention to the following:

Photo Inspection Checklist

Complete Exterior Photos: Ensure there are detailed photos of the front, back, sides, and bottom.
Clear Stamp Photos: The stamp and surrounding leather should be clearly visible.
Interior Photos: Photos should clearly show the interior pockets and tags.
Serial Number Photo: Ensure the serial number is visible.
Check for Obscured Details: Ensure no important details are hidden due to lighting angles.

Product Description Details

Size, Year, and Material Information: There should be clear indication of the manufacturing year (matching the embossed letters).
Detailed Description of Flaws and Wear: Clearly explain any flaws or wear.
Complete Accessories List: Ensure all accessories are listed.
Purchase Channel Information: If the item was bought from a boutique, confirm whether the invoice is included.

Website Credibility

SSL Certification: The website should begin with "https."
Customer Service Contact: Verify that the email address belongs to a legitimate company.
Return/Refund Policy: Ensure the return period and policy are clearly stated.
Secure Payment Methods: Confirm secure payment options are available.

After Purchase: Check Condition, Size, and Consult Experts if Needed

Please verify the following points as soon as possible after purchase:

Document with Photos (for evidence preservation)

Condition at receipt: Take photos of the packaging before opening (with delivery slip), packaging status, and the overall appearance after opening.
Take photos with all accessories.
Take detailed photos of areas of concern: For example, the evenness of stitching, leather texture, etc.

Basic Checkpoints

Size measurement
Weight verification
Material texture check
Stamp verification
Stitching check: Uniformity of stitches, loose threads, etc.

As seen, verifying whether a product is counterfeit requires thorough attention to many details. To ensure peace of mind when purchasing Hermès products, it is recommended to choose a trustworthy authorized retailer or specialty store.

At the Hermès specialty store "XIAOMA," all products are authenticated by professional appraisers with 10 to 30 years of experience. If you're concerned about "possibly purchasing a counterfeit," we also offer authentication services. Feel free to reach out to us for consultations at any time.

▶︎Click here to learn more about XIAOMA

[Expert Authenticator's Guide] 10 Key Points for Identifying Counterfeit Hermès

Authenticating Hermès items requires years of experience and profound expertise. Each Hermès item embodies the craftsmanship and tradition of its artisans.

Here, from the perspective of professional appraisers, we will introduce ten key points for identifying Hermès products. These criteria cover various aspects, including appearance, internal specifications, and accessories, forming a comprehensive set of authenticity indicators.

1: Consistency of Size / Leather / Color / Model

It's crucial to thoroughly check the details before purchasing a bag. Any discrepancies in size, leather type, color, etc., can confirm that it is a counterfeit.

For example, the standard sizes for the Birkin bag include 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, and 50 cm. Other sizes are rare unless they are special editions.

Hermès is very precise about its bag sizes, so measuring the dimensions along the base of the bag can help determine authenticity.

*Please note that the sizes mentioned above may slightly vary due to manufacturing methods (such as external or internal stitching) and usage (e.g., using an organizer inside the bag).

Similarly, certain specific styles may not use particular leather materials or colors, so please be cautious. If there is a size discrepancy or an unavailable color, it indicates that the bag is a counterfeit.

The following articles provides an overview of Hermès materials and color options, feel free to refer to them:

▶︎Click here for a list of Hermès materials

▶︎Click here for a list of Hermès colors

2: Overall Quality

First and foremost, it is essential to examine the overall feel and quality of the bag. Those familiar with Hermès bags can immediately detect counterfeit bags due to a lack of balance and an unnatural sense of quality.

Hermès conducts strict checks on both stitching and materials, so if you notice any oddities or unnatural features in the bag, it is recommended that you refrain from purchasing it.

While pre-owned bags may have some minor scratches, wear, or fading due to time, if you're purchasing a brand-new item, the bag should remain in perfect condition.

Differences in color between the bottom and handles of the bag, as well as texture differences between the front and back, and the material feel of the side pleats—if these leather textures are inconsistent, it can be confirmed as evidence of a counterfeit.

Experienced authenticators, in addition to inspecting the materials and colors, will run their fingers along the opening of the bag to check the leather's thickness and smoothness, which helps determine its authenticity.

The precision of the cutting, uniformity of leather thickness, and the craftsmanship of the edge finishing are important indicators in distinguishing between genuine and counterfeit products.

3: Structure

Authentic Birkin and Kelly bags have four metal feet on the bottom, precisely positioned to ensure the bag stands perfectly upright. When you place the bag on a flat surface, it should not tilt or fall over.

The handles of authentic bags should maintain their upright position and will not bend or fold over. Additionally, to enhance usability, the front handle of a Birkin is intentionally designed to be slightly shorter than the back handle. Therefore, if both handles are equal length, this indicates the bag is likely to be a counterfeit.

4: Stamps

When verifying authenticity, pay close attention to the Hermès embossing and brand stamps. The Hermès stamp is located on the leather portion below the stitching in the center front of the bag. The spacing between letters is uniform, and the characters are clear with consistent thickness.

Additionally, the embossing should be gently pressed into the leather to avoid damaging the leather, and importantly, the font color used for the stamp must match the color of the metal hardware.

However, it is important to note that bags from Barenia and Veau Chamonix leathers only feature embossing without coloring. Below is an example of the embossing on Barenia leather. ▼

In cases where exotic leather is used, there is a special stamp indicating the material. For example, on a Porosus Crocodile Birkin, you can see the "Λ" stamp. ▼

Related article: Hermès Exotic Leather Guide

In addition, every Hermès product is stamped with information indicating the manufacturing year and the artisan who crafted it. This information is presented through a combination of shapes, symbols, letters, and numbers. Its complex form not only prevents counterfeiting but also serves as a key indicator for authenticity.

Taking the Birkin bag as an example, although the placement of the stamp may vary depending on the model, it is typically embossed in a concealed location on the bag. For most models, the stamp is found on the inner side of the shoulder strap, the inside of the outer pocket, or the upper part of the side panel.

Below are examples of the typical stamp locations for representative models for your reference.

For the stamp placement of other representative styles, please refer to the following article.

▶︎(2024 latest edition) List of Hermès stamps｜Production date & meaning

In addition to confirming the presence of the stamp, it is important to carefully check whether the bag's color, material, and production year match the stamp information. If the stamped details do not align with these characteristics, the bag is likely a counterfeit.

5: Hardware and Clochette

The hardware used in counterfeit items often reveals poor quality, they are often overly shiny hardware or have noticeable polishing marks.

Additionally, the structure of the hardware components can help distinguish between genuine and counterfeit items. For example, authentic hardware is finely crafted and uniform, while counterfeit items may have missing details or exhibit unnatural width in certain areas.

Even for pre-owned bags, the metal hardware usually shows no excessive wear or unnatural shine. Hermès craftsmanship ensures that the metal accessories maintain their high quality over time, with little to no loss of luster or damage.

Some special hardware, such as black accessories, has been discontinued due to their susceptibility to scratches, but this rarity has made them highly sought after by collectors.

Furthermore, hardware accessories such as the turn lock, cadena (padlock), clochette keys, and feet (studs) should all have the same quality and color. Therefore, if there's any inconsistency in even one of these elements, they could be signs of a counterfeit.

Hardware components that are loose or wobbly are another typical sign of a counterfeit.

For brand new items, the protective film on the hardware should be colorless and transparent.

If the protective film is white or blue, it is likely evidence of a counterfeit. While some counterfeits may replicate the transparent protective film, this can usually be verified with other distinguishing features.

Additionally, the clochette (key holder) of a Birkin bag must be made from a single piece of leather, with consistent leather texture and grain. If the texture of the leather on the front and back of the key holder feels different, or if it is made from two pieces of leather, this is a clear indication of a counterfeit.

The engraving on the metal hardware is also an important indicator for authenticating the genuine product.

The authentic product's markings, as shown in the image above, are clear and precise, while counterfeit products often feature blurry markings. This is due to uneven engraving edges.

6: Stitching

The stitching on Hermès products can also help determine whether an item is authentic or not. Given that the advanced sewing techniques of Hermès are a major part of its appeal, the Birkin uses a distinctive two-needle hand-stitching technique called the saddle stitch.

After more than a year of training, skilled artisans carefully stitch each piece, creating uniform seams without any loose threads. Unlike mass-produced imitations made by machines, authentic Hermès items are known for their beautiful stitching.

7: Zipper and Padlock

The quality of the zipper is a major point in determining whether a Hermès Birkin item is authentic or not. The zippers used in Hermès are designed to stay parallel to the zipper track and never tilt diagonally. The pull tab of the zipper is made of the same material and color as the bag, so there will be no differences in material or color.

The zipper is engraved with the uppercase letter 'H' or the 'Hermès' brand name, while older models feature a square mark. These engravings reflect Hermès' attention to detail, ensuring that each product embodies the brand's unique craftsmanship and quality.

If a zipper has a manufacturer's logo like YKK, it is clearly a counterfeit, and no further authentication is needed. Similarly, the serial number on the padlock (cadena) must match the key number, which is also an important point for identification. Products without a serial number or with mismatched numbers should not even be considered. For example, a white Birkin comes with a white padlock, and Birkins made of exotic leather come with padlocks covered in the same leather. These are all details to help distinguish genuine products from replicas.

8: Lining

The lining of a bag is extremely important to Hermès, and they never compromise on quality just because it's an interior element. Many Hermès bags use chèvre or goatskin (leather with a natural grain texture) for their linings.

Bags with no lining, or those using fabric or vinyl materials for the lining, are counterfeit. The stitching on the lining is also a crucial point of inspection. Irregular stitching or uneven stitch spacing are signs of poor-quality counterfeits. One way to authenticate Hermès bags based on the lining is to verify the exterior and interior color combinations on the official Hermès website. If the color combination doesn't exist in their official lineup, it's evidence that the bag is a counterfeit.

9: Packaging and Dust Bags

Hermès does not issue authentication certificates. Ironically, this means that authentication certificates actually serve as proof of counterfeit items.

However, XIAOMA's professional authenticators conduct thorough inspections of each bag and provide a dedicated authentication certificate, promising that it is a genuine Hermès product.

▶︎ Authentication experts at XIAOMA

Authentic Hermès items never use plastic materials in their packaging, as this could potentially damage the leather. Kelly and Birkin bags (prior 2024) come with rain covers, and depending on the year of manufacture, they are delivered in dust bags that use either one or two straps. The dust bags are of high quality, made from either tan velour, orange cotton flannel, or beige canvas. The fabric is thick, with sturdy drawstrings and stitching. In rare cases, special order items may come in silk dust bags.

In recent years, Hermès boxes have incorporated brand marks that become visible under UV (ultraviolet) light, helping to prevent counterfeiting.

10: Scent

Since Hermès uses the highest quality leathers, its distinctive scent is difficult to replicate. For example, a brand-new Birkin bag has a natural earthy aroma. In contrast, poor-quality counterfeits often emit a harsh, chemical or rubber-like smell due to the use of inferior leather or plastic.

Leather that has been tanned to a high standard carries a distinct fragrance, and experienced authenticators can easily identify the smell of different types of leather. If the scent does not match the leather type, the bag is likely to be counterfeit.

If You Suspect Your Hermès Item Might Be Counterfeit

At XIAOMA, our experienced authenticators, with 10 to 30 years of experience, perform thorough authenticity checks following strict standards, ensuring you receive a reliable and accurate evaluation.

This is done both to help Hermès enthusiasts acquire their "dream items" with confidence, and to help pass on to the next generation Hermès' bag philosophy, first-class craftsmanship, and passion. If you are uncertain whether your item is authentic, please feel free to consult with XIAOMA.

This not only allows Hermès enthusiasts to confidently own their dream items but also passes on the passion for craftsmanship and heritage of Hermès.

If you have any doubts about the authenticity of your item, feel free to consult XIAOMA at any time.

▶︎Click here to learn more about XIAOMA

How to Spot Fake Hermès Products: A Complete Guide | Tips from a Professional with 30+ Years of Auth