Vintage Hermès Kelly Resale Guide|Prices by Era, Condition & Tips to Sell High

Have you tucked away a Kelly bag you inherited from your mother or grandmother, leaving it forgotten in the back of your closet? Perhaps it doesn’t quite fit your current lifestyle, yet parting with it feels like a big step. If this sounds familiar, you’re not alone.


But Hermès is not just an ordinary “luxury brand.”


Vintage Kelly bags, especially those made over 20 years ago, are still highly valued today for their rarity and unique character. By finding out “how much it’s worth now,” you may discover a satisfying way to let go of it—on your own terms.


In this article, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know: what defines a vintage Kelly, how to identify one, resale price ranges by size and era, and expert tips to sell it for the best possible price.


If you’re someone who doesn’t want to sell cheap and later regret it, we’ll also share how to choose a trustworthy buyer.


What Is a Vintage Kelly? Definition and How to Identify One

“Vintage” doesn’t simply mean “old.”

When it comes to Hermès Kelly bags, the value and rarity can vary greatly depending on the production year and specific design features.


That’s why it’s important to clearly understand what qualifies as a vintage Kelly before exploring its resale value.


In this section, we’ll explain—in clear, simple terms—how vintage Kelly bags are generally defined and what key points help distinguish them during appraisal.


Please note: the definition of “vintage” used in this article is a general guideline. Actual resale prices depend on the appraising store's criteria, as well as factors such as condition, material, and market demand.


Definition of Vintage: 20 Years or Older

A Kelly bag is typically considered vintage if it was made more than 20 years ago.


For example, as of 2025, a Kelly produced in 2005 or earlier would fall under this category.


Beyond age alone, what makes a vintage Kelly special is its use of materials from the time, period-specific design details, and the unique date stamp system. These elements add to its appeal and are often reflected in its valuation.


Indeed, some Kelly bags made from classic or rare leathers—no longer found in current collections—can command especially high appraisals due to their irreplaceable charm.


How to Identify One: Stamps and Specifications Hold the Key

The year a Kelly bag was produced can be determined by a small stamp found inside the bag or under the strap.


Here are the most common types:

  1. □ (Square) + Letter: Used from 1997 to 2014 (e.g., □A = 1997, □R = 2014)
  2. ◯ (Circle) + Letter: Used from 1971 to 1996 (e.g., ◯Z = 1996)
  3. Letter only or no symbol: Either older than 1970 or post-2015


These stamps provide a reliable way to identify the bag’s production year and are taken seriously during evaluations.


Key Differences from Modern Kelly Bags: Handle, Stitching, Hardware

Vintage Kelly bags often have several visible differences from modern models. Here are some of the main distinctions:

These design differences strongly influence the overall “presence” and timeless aesthetic of a vintage Kelly.


Being able to accurately identify such details is key to properly assessing its true value.


How Much Is a Vintage Kelly Worth? Estimated Resale Prices by Size

Even within the category of vintage Kelly bags, the appraisal value can vary significantly depending on the size.


Smaller sizes like the 25cm and 28cm models tend to receive higher valuations due to their strong demand, while larger sizes like 32cm and 35cm may see a wider price range depending on usage trends and fashion preferences.


In this section, we outline the general pricing trends and estimated resale values for each size.


Please note: The prices listed below are for reference only. Actual value will depend on factors such as material, color, hardware, date stamp, condition, and market availability.


Kelly 25, 28, 32, and 35: Appraisal Trends

Hermès has released Kelly bags in a wide range of sizes over the years. However, in today’s vintage market, demand tends to concentrate around more compact sizes.


  1. Kelly 25 (Sellier or Retourne): Small and elegant, this size remains highly sought-after even in current collections. Vintage versions hold their value well and tend to be appraised at the higher end.
  2. Kelly 28: A classic and balanced size—elegant yet practical. Its versatility for both formal and business use ensures steady demand.
  3. Kelly 32 & 35: These sizes offer greater storage capacity, which appeals to those who carry more items. However, as fashion trends lean more casual and compact, larger sizes may be seen as less versatile. That said, vintage models in Box Calf leather or timeless colors in excellent condition can still command strong prices.


Demand and Estimated Resale Value by Size

Prices are based on 2025 estimates and may vary by condition and specifications.


▶︎ Interested in the resale value of both vintage and current Kelly bags? Check out our Complete Kelly Resale Guide for market trends and tips to maximize your offer.


Did you know?

Depending on its condition and specifications, even a vintage Kelly can be appraised at the same level as a modern Kelly in basic materials.


As of 2025, the current retail prices for Kelly bags start at around ¥1,900,000 for a Kelly 25, and around ¥2,000,000 for a Kelly 28, depending on the model and leather.


For more detailed information on up-to-date retail pricing, refer to our article:

"[2025 Edition] Hermès Kelly Price List: Size, Material & Historical Trends"


How Do Era and Specifications Affect the Resale Value of a Vintage Kelly?

Even among Kelly bags of the same size, factors such as when the bag was made, what materials were used, and which design features were implemented can significantly influence its resale value.


This is especially true for vintage models, where period-specific details and material variations play a major role in determining a bag’s worth.


Understanding these features is essential for securing a high appraisal.


The Charm of Pre-1990s Models (Including Mini Kelly)

Kelly bags produced before the 1990s—often referred to as old models—are known for their classic silhouettes and timeless presence, features not found in current models.


Among them, the Mini Kelly (especially the old version) is highly prized for its slender, curved handle and delicate hardware. In excellent condition, some pieces can be appraised at over ¥3,000,000.


Additionally, the production process during that era involved more handcrafting than today, infusing each piece with a unique “spirit of its time”—a major appeal for collectors and vintage enthusiasts alike.


▶︎ For more on this, see our feature article: 7 Iconic Vintage Hermès Bags


Rare Leathers: Box Calf, Veau Gulliver, and More

Many vintage Kellys feature classic leathers that are rarely used today. Notable examples include:

  1. Box Calf: Known for its smooth, glossy finish. Though prone to scratches, it develops a beautiful patina over time. Rarely used in current collections, Box Calf continues to have strong demand in the vintage market.
  2. Veau Gulliver: A supple and soft leather that develops a unique look with age. Loved by long-time Hermès collectors.
  3. Chamonix / Chèvre Mysore / Courchevel: Courchevel, no longer in use today, is a finely textured embossed leather—similar in properties to Epsom. It’s resistant to scratches and highly practical, with a soft sheen that maintains elegance.


The value of these materials lies not only in their beauty but in the fact that they are no longer available—a key point in vintage appraisals.


Some vintage Kellys also come in special combinations of materials or rare colorways, which can elevate their value even further.


For instance, Box Calf × Vibrato or Courchevel × Toile mixed-material designs are rarely seen and often favored by collectors. Such rare pieces may be appraised even higher than standard models.


When uniqueness in both material and design align, a vintage Kelly can become truly “one of a kind.”


Exotic Leathers Still Command Premium Prices in Vintage Models

Vintage Kellys made with exotic skins—such as crocodile (Porosus or Niloticus) or lizard—often receive notably high appraisals, distinguishing them from regular leather models.


Due to their rarity, these bags can command premium prices, particularly when well preserved. However, exotic leathers are susceptible to dryness and age-related deterioration, which can significantly affect the appraisal value—even for the same size and production year.


Therefore, having such bags evaluated by a professional with specific expertise is highly recommended.

▶︎Try a free appraisal through Hermès specialist XIAOMA via LINE.


Gold hardware & Sellier style are trending again

Differences in features such as hardware color and stitching style also impact resale value.

  1. Gold hardware lends a sophisticated and elegant look, especially when paired with staple colors like Black or Etoupe—making it highly desirable.
  2. The Sellier style (with exterior stitching) features a structured, polished silhouette. Its popularity has resurged in recent years, and there is a growing trend of Sellier models receiving higher appraisals than Retourne (interior stitching) versions.


Additionally, unique features such as the shape of the turn-lock (clou) or stamp placement can affect how a vintage Kelly is valued.


This makes expert evaluation at a knowledgeable and trustworthy store essential.


▶︎ For current market trends, check out our article: Top 5 Hermès Items with the Highest Resale Value


How to Maximize Your Appraisal: Tips for Selling Your Vintage Kelly at the Best Price

If you’ve decided to part with your Vintage Kelly, you’ll naturally want to sell it for the highest possible price—and with peace of mind.


When it comes to appraisal, it’s not just the year or leather type that matters. Overlooked details—such as included accessories, the overall appearance, and the sales method—can all influence the final offer.


Below are some practical tips that can help increase the resale value with just a few small steps.


Tips for Accurately Describing Condition (Including Dust Bag, Clochette, etc.)

During appraisal, the condition of the bag is of course important—but so are the accessories that come with it. Certain items can significantly impact your quote.



In-Demand Colors and Sizes

Whether a store can easily resell your bag will also influence its valuation. Bags with universally appealing specifications tend to fetch higher prices.


High-resale-value traits include:

  1. Colors: Classic shades like Black, Etoupe, and Gold
  2. Materials: Popular leathers such as Box Calf and Courchevel
  3. Sizes: 25cm and 28cm models are in consistent demand


While rare colors and exotic materials may command premium prices, bags in standard, well-known configurations often have more stable market value.


Consider Consignment Sales

If you're ready to sell—but not willing to settle for a quick low offer—consignment may be the right option for you.

  1. Pros:The store handles pricing and selling on your behalf, aiming for a fair, high-value sale without requiring you to negotiate.
  2. Cons:Not ideal if you want immediate cash; selling through consignment may take time.


For those who no longer use their Kelly bag but can’t bear to simply let it go, consignment offers a way to part with it meaningfully—giving your cherished item a second life while clearing space in your closet.


At XIAOMA, a trusted Hermès specialist, our strong sales network and reputation make us a preferred choice for customers seeking a satisfying and reliable consignment experience.


▶︎ Learn more about consignment at XIAOMA


Where Should You Sell? How to Identify a Trustworthy Appraisal Store for Vintage Kelly Bags

Choosing the right place to sell your Vintage Kelly is critical to ensuring its value is properly recognized.


Because the Kelly is such a specialized item, it's not enough to go with a shop that simply advertises “high selling prices.” You need a buyer who truly understands the craftsmanship and history behind the bag in order to achieve a satisfying and fair sale.


Here are three key traits to look for when selecting a trustworthy appraisal store:


1. Specialists Who Understand Vintage Hermès

Appraising Hermès bags—especially vintage ones—requires deep knowledge beyond model and size. It includes understanding:

  1. Leather characteristics
  2. Date stamps and their corresponding years
  3. Subtle variations in hardware and stitching


Without this expertise, it’s impossible to properly evaluate a Vintage Kelly.


Look for signs that the store has genuine expertise, such as:

  1. Specialization in Hermès items
  2. Clear mention of experience (e.g., “over X years of appraisal experience”)


These indicators suggest that the shop is equipped to assess your item accurately.


2. A Resale Network for Vintage Kellys

Resale value isn’t based solely on an item's quality—it also depends on whether the store can confidently resell it at a certain price.


Vintage Kellys are highly sought after by collectors and Hermès enthusiasts. Stores that maintain connections with these niche markets can offer higher selling prices because they know they have the customer base to support them.


Key signs include:

  1. International resale channels
  2. A loyal clientele of vintage Hermès fans
  3. Strong resale performance, making it easy to sell after purchase


Stores with these advantages won’t just give you a speculative price—they’ll appraise your bag based on what it can actually sell for.


3. Transparent, Thoughtful Appraisal Explanations

If a shop simply tells you, “It’s an older model, so it’s worth less,” without further explanation, you may walk away feeling unsure or unsatisfied.


A reputable buyer will explain:

  1. Why your bag’s material or design features are valued
  2. Why the price falls within a certain range
  3. How your bag compares to other models on the market


This kind of thorough, respectful explanation is a sign that the store values vintage Hermès bags—and treats their owners with care and integrity.


Knowing the Current Value of Your Vintage Kelly Is the First Step Toward a Regret-Free Sale

The Vintage Kelly is not only a timeless classic, but also a bag that can gain significant asset value depending on its material and specifications.


However, its true worth can only be accurately assessed by a professional who examines the actual piece.

  1. “I inherited it, but I don’t really use it anymore.”
  2. “It’s been sitting in the closet, and I’m starting to wonder about it.”
  3. “I’m not sure if I want to sell, but I’d like to know what it’s worth.”


If any of these resonate with you, we recommend starting with a free appraisal—just send us a photo via LINE.


Our Hermès appraisal specialists, each with over 30 years of experience, will carefully evaluate the condition, stamp, and specifications of your bag to determine its current market value.


There's no need to commit to selling right away. We also offer consignment options, so you can take your time and sell at a price you feel good about.


▶︎[Start a LINE appraisal here] – Just send a photo!

▶︎[Learn about our consignment service] – Ideal if you prefer a thoughtful, high-value sale