Hermès items can be difficult to obtain brand-new.
Meanwhile, the vintage market is gaining attention for its rare, one-of-a-kind pieces and timeless items that continue to grow in value over the years.
This article offers a straightforward guide from the perspective of a Hermès specialty store.
Hermès items are notoriously difficult to purchase brand-new, which has led to a thriving resale market.
Among them, what’s known as “Vintage Hermès” can sometimes hold even greater value than brand-new items, thanks to unique designs and materials no longer used in current collections.
In this section, we’ll introduce the meaning and unique appeal of vintage Hermès.
Generally, the standard for “vintage” is that the item is over 20 years old.
In the case of Hermès bags, you can roughly determine the production year by the date stamp imprinted on the material (such as □A to □H or ◯Z).
On the other hand, for accessories other than bags, the presence of stamps or logos can help determine their approximate age.
For more details about Hermès stamps, please also check out the article linked below.
You Might Also Like：(2025 latest edition) List of Hermès stamps｜Production date & meaning
While Hermès items are difficult to obtain, there is still a certain circulation, and their specifications are standardized.
On the other hand, vintage Hermès pieces gain value from features no longer available today and from materials used at the time.
For example, the popular Hermès accessory, the Chaîne d’Ancre bracelet, features rounded links in its vintage versions that convey a handcrafted warmth, giving it a distinct look compared to the sharper design of the current models.
One reason Hermès items continue to be highly valued even after many years since their release is the brand’s unique craftsmanship.
Each piece is meticulously crafted by skilled artisans, and on top of that, Hermès enforces very strict quality inspections before shipment. As a result, only highly refined products reach the market, which is why many pre-owned items remain in excellent condition.
Additionally, Hermès frequently discontinues or changes the specifications of its products, causing older models to become premium collectibles.
These items often maintain steady demand in the market and are periodically reappraised for their value.
There are three key appeals that make vintage Hermès particularly special.
One of the appeals of vintage Hermès is the chance to find Hermès pieces that are no longer available at official stores. This can be understood in two main ways.
One is that, in some cases, you can acquire these pieces at a relatively affordable price.
In the secondhand market, many items show signs of wear such as small scratches and scuffs from years of use. Because prices vary significantly depending on condition, these used pieces can often be purchased at prices that are more accessible—even for those new to Hermès.
The other is the opportunity to find models and materials that have already been discontinued.
Hermès frequently updates its designs and changes models to keep up with the times, and it’s not uncommon for once-popular bags and accessories to no longer be available at official boutiques today.
For example, the “Her Line” collection, which has been discontinued, is rare but can still occasionally be found in the secondhand market.
Additionally, materials like "Cushbel," which were widely used in the 1990s, have been discontinued and can now only be found in vintage pieces.
Hermès is not just a fashion item; it is also highly regarded as an asset.
Due to the difficulty of purchasing from official stores, it is not uncommon for items to be traded above their retail price in the secondhand market.
When there’s a strong desire for a specific Kelly color or a particular Birkin size, it’s common for customers to purchase at prices above retail in the resale market. This demand supports stable pricing.
Not only are nearly unused current models valuable, but some vintage Hermès pieces also hold high value.
For example, limited-edition pieces like the Kelly Doll, Kelly in box calf leather with gold hardware, and Birkin made from Cushbel leather continue to command high prices in the secondhand market and have the potential to increase in value further.
As such, one of the greatest appeals of vintage Hermès is that, if kept in good condition, its value can grow over time.
Vintage Hermès is also gaining attention as a sustainable choice.
Items crafted from high-quality materials and skilled craftsmanship are durable enough to be used for 10, 20 years or more, making them inherently low-impact on the environment.
Furthermore, choosing items that are already available on the market helps reduce waste and overproduction.
It’s not simply the act of buying secondhand; it’s also about embracing the value that “things don’t have to be new to be beautiful.”
In fact, many vintage Hermès pieces possess unique charm, such as leather that has developed rich character through years of use and special hardware designs that are no longer produced.
Wearing a piece that carries the story of “someone else’s cherished time passed down to you” is becoming a new form of modern luxury, gaining support from many people.
Now, let’s take a closer look at some of the most popular vintage Hermès pieces.
If you’re interested in vintage Hermès, we hope this selection will serve as a helpful reference.
※Please note that some of the items featured in the following images may not be classified as vintage (i.e., not over 20 years old as of the time this article was last updated). We appreciate your understanding.
A bracelet that encapsulates the essence of Hermès, featuring the iconic turn-lock hardware from the Kelly bag.
Vintage pieces are especially sought-after for their more substantial hardware and the bold presence of the chain, which differ from current models.
Made from sterling silver (925), the Gourmette GM features a unisex design that’s perfect for layering.
It’s an ideal piece for those who appreciate a classic and timeless look.
▶︎Discover XIAOMA’s collection of Kelly bracelets at the link below
The Chaîne d’Ancre is one of the most popular pieces in Hermès’ jewelry line.
Vintage versions are especially sought after for their slightly rounder, handcrafted links, which give them a unique character not found in current models.
It retains the soft texture unique to vintage pieces, making it a standout item that effortlessly elevates any outfit when worn alone for a casual yet polished look.
▶︎Explore XIAOMA’s Chaîne d’Ancre bracelets
Image source：Hermès
The playful design of the H Cube necklace has made it a popular model from the 1990s through the early 2000s.
The chain is thinner than the current model, and the enamel color has a softer appearance. When it features the old logo engraving, it is highly valued among collectors as a striking vintage accessory.
Besides the H Cube, HERMÈS has released various accessories featuring the H logo motif, and these iconic designs continue to enjoy great popularity as vintage items.
Even within the iconic Hermès Birkin line, there are differences in materials and specifications depending on the era, and some models are highly valued as vintage pieces.
Among them, the Birkin bags featuring old stamps made from discontinued materials, which are no longer used today, are particularly noteworthy.
For example, "Coushevel," a leather with a fine embossed texture widely used in the 1990s, was the predecessor of the current "Epsom" material.
Coushevel was discontinued around 1998 and can now only be found in vintage pieces.
Other popular features of classic vintage Birkin bags include the glossy "Box Calf" leather and the use of gold hardware, which at the time tended to have a more matte finish compared to the current models.
▶︎The vintage Birkin made with Coushevel leather
The iconic Hermès Kelly bag features various design differences depending on the era.
Among them, the “old-style” Mini Kellys made before the 1990s are especially popular in the vintage market for their unique details and soft, elegant look that are no longer reproduced today.
For example, the current Mini Kelly (Kelly Mini II) features a straight handle design that gives a more modern and sharp impression. In contrast, the vintage Mini Kellys from the 1990s are characterized by a curved and delicate handle shape.
Additionally, the vintage Kelly models have the following features.
These models are valued not only for their size and materials but also as bags that carry the atmosphere of the era in which they were made, adding a touch of classical elegance to any outfit.
For those who appreciate the unique character of vintage items and timeless designs loved across generations, the old-style Kelly is truly the perfect choice.
▶︎Our vintage Kelly collections.
The Kelly Doll, released as a limited edition in 2000, features a playful face motif combined with the iconic Kelly bag design. Its unique and creative style has made it a famous collector's item.
The early batch (marked with the □D stamp) is especially highly valued. The combination of the iconic orange color and Veau Galiber leather fully embodies the essence of Hermès. This piece is also expected to appreciate in value in the future.
▶︎Vintage Kelly Doll
There are several other models known as "limited editions" or "rare lines," all of which hold high asset value.
For example, custom-made Birkin or Kelly bags created exclusively for VIP clients—featuring unique combinations of colors, materials, and hardware not generally available—also tend to hold high asset value as vintage pieces.
▶︎Special order pieces
Not only bags and jewelry, but vintage Hermès items such as belts and watches also enjoy enduring popularity as fashion accessories.
One of the most iconic items is the "H Belt." Featuring a prominent "H" buckle, this model was offered in a wide variety of styles from the 1990s through the 2000s, including many combinations of leather and buckle colors that are now discontinued.
The charm of vintage H belts lies primarily in their classic, eye-catching H buckles and the soft, well-aged leather texture. Some vintage models feature slightly different shapes and thicknesses compared to current versions, giving them a more substantial and distinguished presence.
For example, the following features are especially popular criteria for vintage pieces.
Hermès vintage watches are also a category that has been gaining renewed appreciation recently.
For example, the "Kelly Watch"—a pendant-style watch inspired by the Kelly bag's clasp (crois)—was all the rage in the 1990s. Other models like the "H Watch" and "Clipper" also remain popular for their distinctive vintage designs.
Especially the Kelly Watch and H Watch feature many colors and strap materials that are no longer offered in current collections, making them highly popular among those who appreciate a retro vibe and playful design.
Vintage belts and watches often come in unique, one-of-a-kind pieces, making them perfect for expressing your personal style. If you're looking to subtly incorporate a touch of “Hermès elegance” into your outfits, starting with these small accessories can be a great first step.
If you're considering purchasing a vintage Hermès item for the first time, you might have a number of questions or concerns, such as the ones below.
"In this section, we’ll introduce three key points to keep in mind to help you choose vintage Hermès items without regrets."
Because Hermès retains high resale value even as a pre-owned item, unfortunately, counterfeit products are not uncommon in the market.
In recent years, advancements in technology—such as 3D printing—have led to the production of extremely sophisticated counterfeits. Some are so well-made that even professionals can have difficulty distinguishing them from the real thing.
Especially with vintage pieces, signs of age and wear can make authentication even more challenging. This is precisely why the most important factor is not just what you buy—but where you buy it.
To determine whether a shop is trustworthy, consider the following key points:
By choosing a shop that meets these criteria, you can purchase vintage Hermès items with confidence.
While “vintage” often means charm and character, many people still prefer to choose items that are in the best possible condition.
To avoid the trouble of “the item being more damaged than expected upon arrival,” it’s essential to carefully check the product information beforehand.
If you’re unable to inspect the item in-store, look for shops that offer clear, detailed images online and responsive customer service via platforms like LINE.
It’s ideal to verify the following condition points before purchasing.
The more photos a shop provides—especially ones that clearly reveal the condition and any flaws—the more reliable it tends to be.
As mentioned earlier in the article, there are Hermès models that retain their value well even as vintage pieces—some even appreciate over time.
If you might sell the item in the future or want to prioritize its investment value, it’s recommended to choose classic lines with stable demand, limited editions, or models made from discontinued materials.
Below are some examples of vintage items that are popular from an investment value perspective.
Beyond their fashion elegance, these models are valued for the meaningful experience of owning a vintage Hermès.
Vintage Hermès is a highly popular category due to its charm and rarity, but it’s important to understand before purchasing that these items cannot be preserved in perfect condition forever.
In this section, we’ll cover key precautions for everyday use and steps you can take in advance to protect your vintage Hermès.
Even when vintage items are carefully stored, the materials themselves can change over time. In particular, the following types of aging should be noted.
For example, Box Calf leather used in the Mini Kelly. Glossy materials like this tend to dry out easily, and if not properly cared for, they can develop a white, powdery residue.
On the other hand, the discontinued Clemence leather (with the current Epsom leather as its successor) is relatively durable and popular as a material that can be enjoyed for a long time.
Additionally, in humid environments, tarnishing and rust on hardware parts can often worsen.
The following regular maintenance and storage improvements can help prevent these kinds of damage.
Regular small maintenance efforts are the key to keeping vintage pieces beautiful.
Hermès is a brand with strict repair standards, but it’s important to understand that vintage items may sometimes be refused repair service by the manufacturer.
The following are some reasons why repairs may be refused by the manufacturer.
If this occurs, choosing a reliable professional repair service is an option. Experienced providers may use Hermès-dedicated tools and materials to perform maintenance and recoloring.
Additionally, to enjoy vintage Hermès for a long time, we recommend checking the following points.
To enjoy your vintage Hermès for years to come, it’s important to choose items with the expectation that repairs may be needed.
With particularly valuable vintage models, treating them as items to care for and grow with—rather than disposable—can make your purchase more rewarding.
Simple, regular care and careful storage are key to keeping your vintage Hermès items in pristine condition.
In this section, we’ll cover simple at-home care techniques and important considerations for long-term storage—especially during seasonal changes.
A key appeal of vintage pieces lies in how the materials gracefully age and gain unique texture over time.
To preserve that unique character without compromising its charm, it's important not to over-treat the item, but rather handle it gently and practice regular preventive care.
Using a soft, dry cloth to lightly wipe your item after use or as needed prevents the accumulation of dust and natural oils.
Especially on metal hardware and handles—areas frequently touched—regular wiping helps prevent tarnishing and discoloration.
Leather is a material sensitive to humidity. Moisture can cause mold and discoloration, so it’s best to store leather items in a well-ventilated area.
Direct sunlight over extended periods can lead to fading and increased dryness, so it’s important to choose an appropriate storage location.
Proper precautions are key when storing items unused for extended periods to avoid deformation and aging.
By keeping the following points in mind, you can store your items safely for several months to even years ahead.
Leaving the bag empty for long periods can cause deformation and creases.
By gently stuffing the bag with rolled towels or tissue paper, you can help maintain its shape. Be careful not to overfill—aim for a natural, gentle fullness.
You can also use dedicated bag pillows. XIAOMA offers original bag pillows that you might want to consider.
▶︎XIAOMA Original Bag Pillows
Plastic bags with high airtightness can retain moisture, potentially damaging leather and metal parts.
Ideally, store your items in breathable non-woven fabric bags or in the original Hermès dust bags.
When storing items in closets or wardrobes, it is also recommended to use dehumidifiers or moisture absorbers.
Taking items out about once a month to air them out helps prevent mold and controls moisture.
Vintage Hermès items grow more charming over time when stored with care, almost like displaying them as treasures.
Based on your storage space and daily life, try to keep up gentle care as much as possible.
So far, we have introduced the appeal of vintage Hermès, popular items, how to choose them, and key points for care.
There’s a deep, unique flavor in vintage that you won’t find in new models.
Finding a trustworthy shop is key when hunting for vintage Hermès to ensure a safe purchase.
XIAOMA is a resale shop specializing in Hermès, offering a wide range of items including Birkin and Kelly bags, as well as accessories like bracelets and necklaces.
「Seeking authentic vintage Hermès with real value.」
To those who truly wish for it, we invite you to discover XIAOMA’s wide range of products and dedicated service.
The beauty of Hermès that continues to shine through the ages, in your daily life.
Start your vintage collection with one special piece you love.
▶︎XIAOMA's Vintage Hermès Collection
▶︎Discover Vintage Hermès at XIAOMA Stores
XIAOMA handles over 4,400 Hermès items annually※, and many of our customers are repeat buyers.
※Total Annual Purchase Volume Across All XIAOMA Stores (Ginza Chuo-dori Main Store, Hong Kong Store, Singapore Store): Performance from January 1, 2024, to January 31, 2025.
