There’s a chill in the air, the nights are getting longer and it’s finally time to slip on some layers. Some Hermès bags translate better to certain seasons than others (think Kelly Picnic and On a Summer Day Constance for summer). For autumn, earthy tones like browns, reds, caramels and oranges work well, but another way to invoke the spirit of autumn is to opt for cozy, tactile fabrics that are ideal for layering.
We’ve handpicked eight of our favorite Hermès fabrics to seek out this season.
Suede reads as cozy, luxurious and very wearable for every day. When you think of tactile, strokable fabrics, suede is surely right up there in the top five. It made an appearance on the runway in the Hermès Fall/Winter 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection as a dark brown fringed cocoon jacket, a fringed dress and a fringed beige suede coat.
Hermès Doblis Suede is untreated cowhide. Its soft feel and naturally velvety shine make it an appealing addition to your autumn wardrobe.
Though it has a reputation for being tricky to look after, if you avoid wet weather, it’s not too high maintenance. Dust and dirt can usually be wiped off if you stroke the fabric in one direction with a dry cloth. Alternatively, you can use the eraser Hermès Suede bags come with. Hermès Suede is very, very durable and looks very casual.
If you want to add an autumnal nod to your look, a Constance Mini 19 cm in Blue Ocean with Gold hardware fits the bill. On the resale market, you can find some Suede Birkin, Kelly, Mini Kelly, Picotin and other bags too.
This nostalgic fabric is inextricably linked in the minds of most of us with the 70s and 80s. Corduroy adds a retro element to any outfit. If a pair of corduroy trousers or a jacket is a step too far into the retro realm for you, a cute Constance or Roulis might be the compromise you’re looking for. The texture adds warmth and coziness to your outfit.
This Limited Edition Roulis was released in 2021. Swift leather teamed with a Corduroy flap adds easy sophistication to the design. The brown tones give the bag almost teddy bear levels of snuggly comfort.
This Constance in Blue Marine is an even more subtle way to add Corduroy texture to your look.
This rarely seen material has long since been discontinued, but can still be found on the resale market. Wool Toresage is a closely knitted wool weave that makes a great transitional bag for autumn and winter. This Kelly Sport, with Wool Toresage paneling on the front, base and back, works well as part of a layered seasonal look.
Wool Toresage is deceptively easy to clean and makes a practical option for the changeable weather of the season. If it gets wet or dirty you can use a gentle detergent to treat the stain.
Felted wool, Todoo Feutre, is more often seen on small Hermès accessories, but it was also used on this Limited Edition HAC 40 in the Hermès Fall/Winter 2017 collection The body of the bag is Gris Moyen Todoo Feutre and the top is Blue Nuit Togo leather. Unlike most Hermès bags, this HAC doesn’t have a layer of leather inside, which makes it lighter to carry and, thus, a great option for an autumn getaway.
Todoo Feutre has also been used for Birkin 35s in Vert Fonce and Vert Anglais and also on Evelyne and Picotin bags.
Vibrato leather is a painstaking process trademarked by Hermès, making it unique to the brand. Though it may look like two-dimensional stripes from a distance, it’s created by stacking multiple colors of goat leather together and cutting it to get a vertical cross-section and then stretched together, one by one. It feels like a rough suede when you stroke it. This leather is durable and scratch-resistant. It comes with an eraser which you can use to buff out small scratches and keep it looking as good as new.
Vibrato Snip is an even more complex version of the design, with the leather stacked and then cut both horizontally and vertically. Only the most skilled Hermès artisans can make this complex leather, so it’s a real must-have for true Hermès connoisseurs to have in their collection. Vibrato and Vibrato Snip discontinued a long time ago, so you can only find these pieces on the resale market.
This Kelly Ado, produced in 2000, would make a photogenic accessory for autumn leaf-viewing.
Troika is an even rarer Hermès material and can only be found on a handful of Birkins, Kellys and Bolides. This furry calfskin is incredibly soft to the touch and has a really attractive luster. This controversial leather is made from the hide of an unborn calf. The process behind it means that it is produced in very small quantities. The rarest versions have animal prints on them and are sought-after collector’s pieces.
Crinoline is commonly known as horsehair, but it’s a horsehair and hemp blend that’s extraordinarily sturdy and waterproof. It’s a little lighter than canvas and is usually stitched together with leather. Its lightweight makes it a practical material for a large bag, like this Birkin 40 Barenia.
Another rare find is a pure horsehair fabric, which resembles a wig. This fabric has been used on a Black Passe-Guide bag. This rare oddity is an unusual find and certainly a collector’s piece.
An undeniably seasonal material is Shearling, sheepskin. Jean Paul Gaultier, legendary former creative director of Hermès, designed Teddy Kelly Shearling. In 2005, the Teddy Kelly was a dark version at 35cm. In 2010, it was lighter and bigger, at 40 cm. In 2010, he also created a cute Teddy Kelly Pochette and a Teddy Kelly Muff.
To see more, watch our YouTube video on the subject.
