Hermès’ Dark Side
When most Hermès lovers and collectors think of jet black hardware and an embossed stamp, they’ll think of the stunning So Black series, designed by Jean Paul Gaultier, creative director of Hermès from 2003 to 2010. In fact, the idea of a completely black Hermès bag wasn’t a new one when the So Black series was introduced in 2010.
Back at the turn of the millennium in 2000, Hermès introduced an incredibly rare and highly sought-after Limited Edition Kelly: the Millennium Moonlight Kelly. In contrast to the So Black bags, the hardware is not completely black, but a glossy dark grey Ruthenium. This hardware is no longer used by Hermès, making it even more covetable. A second version of the bag, The Millennium Kelly, has a silver foil brand stamp and is more commonly seen.
The Millennium Moonlight Kelly is made of Chamonix leather, which is close to Box Calf, but has a more matte appearance. Its padlock is an ‘H’ shape featuring engraved grooves on the front, and ‘H 2000’ on one side. The Kelly isn’t the only Hermès bag that got a Millennium treatment: a limited edition black Chamonix leather Millennium Moonlight Drag 32 with Ruthenium hardware was also released in 2000.
“Ten years after the release of the Millennium Kelly, Jean Paul Gaultier reworked the idea to create the So Black collection, one of his last creations before leaving the brand to set up his own fashion house.”
Ten years after the release of the Millennium Kelly, Jean Paul Gaultier reworked the idea to create the So Black collection, one of his last creations before leaving the brand to set up his own fashion house. He changed the hardware from Gold or Palladium to a Black PVC coating, which transforms the Hermès bags, giving them a cooler, sexier edge. The Jean Paul Gaultier era at Hermès is a lot of people’s favorite. He is known for respecting the heritage of Hermès while putting his own stamp on the fashion house. His style is playful, clever and sexy, and So Black’s simple subversion is the perfect example of that.
When So Black was released in 2010, the collection was quickly pulled from the market because the PVC coating on the hardware is prone to chipping. This makes the collection ultra-rare and highly sought-after. It’s certainly a rival for the Himalaya in terms of collectability.
The So Black collection includes Birkin 30 and 35, Kelly 32 and 35, Kelly Pochette, Kelly Cut and Constance Long.
Shop the So Black collection here
